Omaha to NYC Day 34

Static map: https://ridewithgps.com/trips/415393037?privacy_code=2ZOyjZvL0A9i8wwhCUDAYGseCKChg03u

Animated map: https://www.relive.com/view/vYvrg3yXVxO

I resolved to get an early start. I wanted to make up the ground I'd lost yesterday. Maybe I need to be more flexible, but I was proud of my ability to keep a schedule and others were depending on me being somewhere at a certain time. Today's destination was Ilion Marina. I got up in time to catch the start of the hotel breakfast of preformed eggs, cereal, and self-made waffles. I was out the door by 7:00. 

I went half a mile before I stopped for real coffee. I had time, right? I wanted to write up a blog post and needed fuel. I had a great cup of drip and a vegan cookie. Kelsey's Coffee and Friends is just down the street from Syracuse University which explained all the vegan options. Lee, a graduate math student, asked about my loaded bike. He is from Western China and lived on a a route used by bike tourers to go to Tibet. He grew up wanting to bike tour and finally did the long, long climb up to the Tibetan Plateau as a teen. 

(Where the Canal has been abandoned sometimes the only sign is a wide ditch filled with water loving plants,)

I left the coffee shop shortly after 8:00. I was still getting a jump on the day. After this weird “ride in the road meridian” section that featured tons of lights and odd design choices that made you turn right up a short hill before each and every light, I made it to the Old Erie Canal State Historic Park, a beautiful 36 mile section of the trail with lots of helpful signage and preserved bits of the first and second versions of the canal. 

(Morning mist)

A mist rose over the canal in the soft early morning light. Here and there trees had started to turn, especially sumac which seems to be an early turner. Many people were out for morning runs or walks. 

(Fall is here)

At Chittenango I encountered the Chittenango Landing Canal Boat Museum, a fascinating look at how the boats were constructed and lives were lived. I'd read the Wedding of the Waters about the building of the canal (Thanks Mike), but hadn't given a ton of thought to its operation and the culture it spawned. The boats themselves were very blocky because they could maximize space and didn't need to worry about rough water. Whole multigenerational families lived as boat operators with kids often leading miles to tow boats. Other kids were orphans who were often treated poorly and ended up homeless in the winter. 

(Drydock ruins with canalboat in the background)

While at the museum, I ran into three guys cycling the canal who I'd met the day before at Lyons. We all ride over to the coffee shop and had a break. They were from Ohio and Michigan and were traveling light by staying in hotels. Riding the Canal is a thing. I saw many groups and solo riders. It was nice to have fellow travelers. We kept leapfrogging each other depending on where we took breaks. And speaking of breaks, I had another great meal at Brown Brothers BBQ in Canastota. New York is upping the bike tour food experience. Two guys from Westchester County gave me tips on that part of the Hudson Valley Trail which is sparse on accommodations. 

(Now, that's a sandwich!)

Next up was Rome, which I thought would be a small city, but is really a big town. I ran into Fort Stanwix. I knew about the fort from my childhood when I was very into the Revolutionary War, but had since forgotten about it so it was a nice surprise to discover a piece of history unexpectedly, even if it is a reconstruction. It was originally built by the British during the French and Indian War. Occupied by the colonists during the Revolution, it was besieged by the British for three weeks before one Benedict Arnold lifted the siege. I had a chat with a National Parks Ranger from Oregon. 

(Fort Stanswix)

It was 30 miles to Ilion and it was 3:00. Perfect timing, but I skipped the Fort Stanwix movie. I continued to Utica which I thought was a big town, but is really a small city. The good people of Whitesburo were having an ICE out demo. Good work! The trail detoured in Utica, entering the city for a bit and ending in a confusing bit. It was a relief to be back on a trail. I passed through Frankfort which seemed to be hard on its luck then finally to Ilion Marina at 6:30. 

(Train switching tower in Utica. Watch that first step!)

The marina itself was very pretty, but it was sandwiched between two freeways and a railway. I guess the Canal was living up to its history as an artery for commercial transportation. It was loud. After setting up camp and grabbing a shower I rode over one of the freeways into town for dinner. Riggies or rigatoni is a thing near Utica. I had a huge helping of chicken riggies and got back after dark. It was a long, blessedly uneventful day. 

(Everything causing noise is well hidden)