Omaha to NYC Day 12: The I&M Canal

Static Map: https://ridewithgps.com/trips/410060557?privacy_code=PgCpUMzlMf7W0SoTIyEnLFfQSNTqe4f9

Animated map: https://www.relive.com/view/v1Ow7N2Y9EO

I awoke thankful for AC, but thought I'd give hot weather camping a go tonight at Channhon State Park. It's right on the trail. There are no showers so it'll be a water bottle bath today. The trail goes through more towns so I didnt need to worry about overheating as much. 

I decided to take a side trip over to Starved Rock State Park from the b&b to see some of the slot canyons it's famous for. I was only able to see one, but what a beautiful place! And I had it to myself! I enjoyed the echoey solitude before moving on. I also stopped by Starved Rock itself. It got its grim name in an apocryphal story that a group of Illinois were besieged there by a group of Potawatomi and starved. More known is that the French had a fort there. 

(Entrance to French Canyon)

Going back to the Lander's House, I packed up and was on the trail by 10:30. The trail was a cool tree tunnel along the swampy former canal. A short term miles put me in Ottawa.

(Swampy former canal(

Ottawa was home to many of the women painted from their work painting clock dials with glow in the dark radium based paint. The Radium Dial Corporation, which employed them, treated them horribly. I read about them in the book Radium Girls. Some of the women, notably Catherine Donahue, fought back and won although the money was too little too late. I visited a memorial to them, the site of the Radium Dial Corporation which was so toxic it had to be torn down and the dirt replaced, and finally Catherine Donahue's home where she wanted away to 60 pounds. Catherine's home is a private residence like Reagan's in Galesburg, but he's deserves a plaque out front more than Reagan's. 

(Radium workers' memorial)

(Catherine Donahue's former home)

It wasn't all grim history in Ottawa. I went towel shopping. The memorial was across from an Ace Hardware. They have housewares so maybe… They did not. I asked the cashier. She mentioned the Walmart a couple miles out of town. I asked if there might be anywhere closer. The woman behind me said, “This is Ottawa”. Suddenly I had an idea, shop towels! If they can absorb oil, they can absorb water on me. Pleased with my ingenuity, I headed back to the trail.

(My new towels)

I was soon on single track under a cool tree canopy. I passed a lock where I took pictures of the industry of yesteryear. Almost as soon as I left, I encountered a huge Nucor plant. Nucor recycles steel in Seattle, but this plant clearly wasn't a mill. I looked online and discovered they make steel tubing for vehicles. 

(Old lock)

(New Nucor)

Close to Morris I happened on a beautiful new rock bridge. While I was seated on a slab of rock that matched the bridge James strode up. I passed him a few minutes earlier. He'd called out “great day” despite the heat. He looked like George Carlin and was walking to help his recovery from his third stroke. He was doing a pretty good job. He's a retired engineer who worked of a lot of wind turbine projects for GE. Now he walks the canal trail everyday, picks up trash (not that there's a lot), and imbibes a little bud.

(James is a man of many talents, but not framing)

The heat index was back at 105. I had plenty of Gatorade. In fact, I was getting sick of Gatorade, but my head felt hot. I'd taken my helmet off since I was on a dirt and grass trail, but I wanted to pour some water over my head. Corleone's in Morris will live in infamy and because they only give water to customers. Or was I just a Karen? I had to buy water at a Citgo for $1.50, but man it felt good 

 I could feel camp now. Despite the beautiful trail, I kept checking the mileage. I noted the canal was next to the Illinois River for long stretches. I wondered why. It turns out the Illinois wasn't navigable until 1933. A couple of guys in off-road golf cart things passed me as they had for the past few days. They never seem to stop and you know, work. There were some spots that need maintenance! I have seen a lot of people mowing. They love mowing here.

(The only fully restored lock)

I rounded a bend where the Illinois divides into the Des Plaines and Kankakee Rivers. I took the Des Plaines route. The time was later than I'd planned. I'd spent a lot of time at Starved Rock and in Ottawa. I rolled into Channahon State Park at 5:45pm. The park is basic, but the camping is just for tents! I reveled in finding my tribe. But not for long. The bugs were coming out! I scrambled to set up my tent so I could change into a pair of shorts so I could then take another bike water bottle shower because this place didn't have a shower building. Pouring cold water all over felt so, so good. Next was dinner. I didn't have anything to cook so I rode to one of the two sit down places, Chinese. 

(Nice light later in the day)

It was getting dark by the time I got back. I tried sitting out, but the bugs were just too thick. I retreated to the tent which was a sweat box. It was still 85° or so. Bringing a hand fan was a great decision. I kept going outside going the bug situation would get better. I noticed that they decrease after it's totally dark. Not here. I was camped next to a big stagnant piece of water after all. 

(Hot, buggy camp)

I tried writing this post in the tent, but gave up. It was just too hot, sticky, and itchy. Despite my best efforts, some sneaky mosquitoes were in the tent with me. Between fanning and swatting I couldn't write. I laid down with that unique sound of sweaty skin on nylon and tried to sleep.