Omaha to NYC D21: Detroit




Restful, but drippy. That was the night. The cooler temps meant more condensation on the inside of the tent’s rainfly. Occasionally, I’d hear a ‘plink’ as a drop fell off. Thankfully, there wasn’t a lot of plinking, but I had to be careful not to shake the tent.

(Morning mist)

This day was going to be even longer and I wanted to get to my Warmshowers’ host’s place at a reasonable hour. I woke before dawn and got ready to ride just after sunrise. I’d managed to forget breakfast stuff at yesterday’s resupply, but I had purchased some bars. That was breakfast #1. The tent was wet, especially the fly which was soaked and got strapped to the rack. 

It was 14 miles to Chelsea and breakfast #2. The road was lightly travelled making me feel safe and relaxed. The houses near Portage Lake were modest and one had a Trump sign. A few miles in I heard the unmistakably, Jurassic sound of sandhill cranes. It took a minute to spot the pair off in a field. Look closely in the photo for them. As I moved down the road the houses got bigger and I started seeing Abdul for Senate signs. Already getting hungry again I rolled into Chelsea.

(Sandhill cranes)

I stopped at Zou Zou’s. Outside I saw a rack for hanging a ton of bikes of which there were none at the time. This was the perfect tent drying opportunity. They had to be bike friendly too. Nevertheless, I caught a little attitude from the barista when I asked if I could dry my gear. Chelsea is a tidy town. Drying gear can wreck the vibe. I guess Jeff Daniels has a house there.

(Drying gear and eating crepe)

I got a crepe and a pecan bar because I can now. I sat outside to mind the gear. I stayed longer than I’d planned to get the rainfly totally dry. Still, I was pedalling by 10:00. I had a bike path out of town halfway to Dexter then a mellow road. Along the way I saw the Lost Pyramids of Dexter, which had something to do with railroads, and a whole bunch of antique cars. I chatted with a young couple in a 1911 Maxwell at a light and learned that the Henry Ford Museum is hosting an antique car show and rally this weekend. 

(One of many old timey cars)

At Dexter you catch a really nice bike trail then a really nice road along the Huron River to Ann Arbor. I saw a bunch of cyclists here. It seems to be a regular cycling route for folks in Ann Arbor. The quiet road ended in Ann Arbor. 

(Prettiness on the way to Ann Arbor)

I had a short climb from the river to … seeming chaos. The roads were being dug up for road work. The traffic was bumper to bumper on the detour and students were everywhere! It was exhilarating. It was exhausting. I thought about touring the campus, but opted for just a photo op to send to a UM alum friend at work. I snapped one with the Hill Auditorium. Next up was lunch. I had student quality sushi on their version of the Ave. I was a little stressed to leave my bike with all its bags out in the open. Luckily service was super fast. 

(State Street near the University of Michigan)

I scooted out of town. For the first time this trip, I forgot to restart my ride tracker resulting in a weird straight line from the lunch spot to Plymouth Road. Luckily, it was just a few miles. And speaking of Plymouth Road, I was anticipating another quiet country road, but it was a full on 6 lane stroad with strip malls and gas stations. There was a trail/sidewalk that kept me out of traffic. 

(Entering Wayne County)

Near the end of the busy section, a fire ladder truck was parked with a US flag hanging from the top of the ladder. 9-11. It was 25 years ago today. Four firefighters were standing in front. Being on a bike I was able to stop and chat. I told them I was in emergency management and that my brother had a friend who was a firefighter who was killed at the World Trade Center. Thanked them, shook their hands, and pedalled on. 

Plymouth Road settled down. It never matched the idyllic calmness of the road into Ann Arbor, but it wasn’t bad. I was nearing the city after all. When I arrived in the town of Plymouth, it was getting ready for its Fall Festival. I got there an hour early. Vendors were putting the finishing touches on their booths. I found a coffee stand and got an Andes Iced Latte. Whatever was in it totally hit the spot. I rested and watched the first festival goers trickle in. The weather was perfect. Fall is coming.

(Fall Festival prep)

Leaving Plymouth, I followed Hines Drive all the way to the edge of Detroit. It’s a funny piece of linear infrastructure. It’s a fairly well used road with many parks hanging off of it, an awesome 6-8ft shoulder and a poorly maintained bike trail next to it. I used the shoulder most of the time. I cranked out the miles with thoughts of rest awaiting in Detroit. I continued to see old fashioned cars. Many were sharing the shoulder with me. One poor car was stuck with radiator issues. 

(Nice sights heading into Detroit)

At Rouge Park near Dearborn Heights I finally entered Detroit. It's a big city area-wise. I rode 6 miles along Tireman Ave. Immediately, I switched from a suburban style collector/arterial road network to a grid. The housing was 1940’s post-war. I didn’t see any sign of the abandoned blocks I’d hear about. Gradually, the city built up, but it was surprisingly low density. I didn’t see any apartments. I passed a new housing development and a huge industrial building, the Delaco Steel Corp. 

(My first glimpse of Detroit)

Where Tireman jogs to the north, my Warmshowers host, Sarah, had given me an actual Ride With GPS route to her house. I was very thankful to have it. I wound my way to the riverfront. Right after I turned south I began seeing vacant land. It’s eerie. Whole blocks were empty, but right next to them were great looking houses. Later, Sarah filled me in on the history. She works for a non-profit that is working to activate these spaces as community gardens and farms.

(Lonely house that once had many neighbors)

Once I reached the river it was as if I suddenly entered a different city. Everything was new and modern looking. The Detroit River is wide and blue with Windsor on the opposite side. The inland areas seemed largely empty of pedestrians, but people were strolling everywhere. I rolled slowly taking in the views all the way to the bridge to Belle Isle where I turned inland again. 

(The Detroit River)

It was a quick mile or two to Sarah’s house. She lives in an old house. Her block has a full compliment of homes, but the surrounding area has lots of vacant land. I got there right at 6:00. She is the kind of person who makes you immediately feel relaxed. We chatted, did a load of laundry, and headed out for a drink and soft serve ice cream. I had two days of lingering in Detroit planned to make sure I got a good visit in the city. I am thankful Sarah is letting me stay three nights. As in Chicago, I am not going to a full write up on my puttering about. 

(Downtown from the River)

Comments

  1. TJ. this is a great report ... of course, I would have gone to the Ford museum and looked at all the Veteran and Vintage cars ... and taken a lot of pictures :-) ... very interested to hear about the changes in domiciles and the political signs as you rode along through these fascinating neighborhoods. I had the feeling of getting a tour of a small bit of America .. Enjoy Detroit. all my very best Charles ...from a rainy Sunday in Seattle!

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